Chasing waterfalls in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula

I’m not entirely sure why we as human beings enjoy being around water sources or why we can so easily become mesmerized by the rhythmic crash of waves on a lakeshore, the smooth cascade of water across a sheer cliff face, or the perpetual energy of a tumbling forest stream. But whatever the biological or spiritual reason, being around bodies of water tends to have a calming effect. I got to experience that effect on a small scale this past weekend when I went on a trip with my fiancé and immediate family to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, visiting the Porcupine Mountains and various other scenic sights along the way. I thought I would share some highlights in case you're planning a trip to the area and could use some recommendations.

Our trip began on Thursday, when we made a roughly three-hour drive to Bond Falls. If you enter the park through the official entrance on Scenic Overlook Drive, you must pay for a Michigan State Park pass, which is $11. However, to avoid paying the fee, you can park on Bond Falls Road near the Bond Falls Outpost souvenir and snack shop, and follow the path that goes along the river down to the falls.

The falls themselves are very beautiful, definitely one of my favorites on the trip. They are easily accessible from the parking lot, with sturdy boardwalks. Once at the foot of the falls, you can get an unobstructed view from several angles. If you want to, you can hike up and around the falls, pass the hydroelectric dam on the highway, and cross the Middle Branch Ontonagon River on a concrete stepping-stone footbridge. The entire hiking loop is about 1 mile through rugged terrain.

After Bond Falls, we went to Agate Falls, also on the Middle Branch Ontonagon River. The falls are a short distance, less than half a mile, from the parking lot. You go through a pedestrian tunnel that goes underneath Highway 28, and continue down a path running parallel to the river. To get to the bottom of the falls and actually have a decent viewing angle, you have to make your way down a steep slope, which can be slippery with pine needles, especially if it has rained recently. So be cautious if you decide to go. It’s another very pretty waterfall, though, nicely framed by forest on either side and a railroad bridge running above it.

Next we continued our journey north – and west – and met up with a couple of my mom’s cousins at the Konteka Black Bear Restaurant & Lounge in White Pine. The unique thing about this restaurant is its large picture windows in the dining room that overlook food piles placed out by the staff to attract black bears. We saw a couple of bears, vultures, and a coyote while there. It’s certainly a touristy thing, but fun. The food, while not fancy, was good and reasonably priced for the area.

After filling our bellies, we made a short 5-mile drive north to Bonanza/Greenwood Falls. The falls are right off the parking lot, so super easy to access. According to UPTravel.com: “Fed by the mighty Big Iron River, Bonanza Falls stretches across an impressive 100-foot width. While no single drop exceeds 10 feet, it’s the series of cascading falls that truly steals the show.” The most interesting part for me was the layered rock formation in the center.

After staying overnight in Ontonagon, the next day we dove into the Porkies. First we visited the Lake of the Clouds Overlook. You can tell this is a popular destination, as the trail, mostly consisting of wooden steps and a boardwalk, is well-maintained. It’s only a short distance to the overlook; I measured a 0.6-mile round trip.

The 133-acre lake, long and narrow, is nestled in a valley between two ridges. The surrounding escarpment rises nearly 500 feet above the lake at its highest point. The pristine, undisturbed water surrounded by virgin wilderness makes for some stunning views.

We continued our journey by following the shoreline of Lake Superior to the westernmost end of the park to hit three waterfalls on the Presque Isle River and have another look at the big lake. Mostly following the West River Trail, we trekked 2.5 miles in all. The hike was labor-intensive, with more than 300 stairs, but the views were worth it. We took a somewhat convoluted route as we followed the trail part of the time and the road part of the time, so the order I’ve listed may not be the typical route. Just know that if you go, you’ll clearly be able to tell when you’ve reached each waterfall, because each has a sign.

Wewentto NawadahaFalls first. According to signage at the falls, in Ojibwe, Nawadaha means “in the midst of the rapids,” a name that is especially appropriate in the spring of the year when the river swells with rain and melting snow, and nearly 12,000 gallons tumble over Nawadaha Falls every second. These terraced falls did not have as spectacular a drop as some of the others, but were still pretty. Next we saw ManabezhoFalls, which featured more of a dramatic drop but the view was partially obstructed by trees.

Lastly we took in Manido Falls, my favorite of the three. The river widens at this point and you get a direct view instead of from the side. Adding to the interest of these falls are the layers of flat, copper-colored rock and pools of foam spanning the river. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can walk out on the rocks and stand directly in front of the waterfall. It’s a great photo op. Per the sign by the waterfall: “The amber-colored water of the river, and the persistent foam that you notice beneath the waterfalls, is largely the result of tannins and other water-soluble plant compounds that wash into the river as it journeys to meet Lake Superior.”

After viewing the falls, we walked across a suspension bridge to Presque Isle, which is not actually an island, but a peninsula that when flooded becomes surrounded by water. From there it was a short walk to the lakeshore. The sky was overcast that day and just the right color that you could hardly tell where it ended and Lake Superior began – another captivating scene from God’s creation. We took a moment to enjoy it before continuing our journey.

I will continue with my list of sights to see next week. Have a good week!